Lectura de sambata dimineata

Astazi fara introducere, pentru ca nu am imaginatie, va lasa doar sa cititi. Dar tot nu uit sa va invit la doua evenimente, se pare ca aceasta sambata este foarte aglomerata: Unveiled 5 editia de Craciun (un loc in care puteti intalni tineri designeri romani, organizat in nou-deschisa cafenea a Danei Nalbaru de la Hi-Q, str. Gen. Dona Nicolae 18) si JAFF (la Institute The Cafe, sos. Stirbei Voda 104-106).

Big „O” Birthdays for generation of designers – „“The loss of François Lesage, the beating heart of Parisian embroidery, at age 82, marks fashion history. A mighty tree in the landscape of haute couture has fallen… Fashion has a way of holding up a mirror to the wider world. But in the fading days of 2011, the bellwether is not about changes in style. It’s about designers themselves and a seismic generational shift.” In International Herald Tribune.

A Danish fairy tale gone awry – „“It was a feat that made even skeptics believe in the power of a charm bracelet: a selection of 600 charms, in various combinations of gold, silver, wood and glass, cast in intricate shapes and designs, imbued with gems or semiprecious stones, transformed Pandora from a family-run jewelry shop in Copenhagen to a multibillion-dollar international brand.” In NY Times

Reclaim your identity – „It might be a cliché to call necessity the mother of invention, but when it comes to fashion it describes a powerful truth. It explains the rebirth of the cardigan (Coco Chanel didn’t want to mess up her hair, so she sliced her boyfriend’s sweater down the centre and shrugged it on); the trenchcoat (made for soldiers in, well, the trenches); and Spanx (whose creator Sara Blakely cut her tights off at the ankle so that they would have a clean line under trousers).” In Financial Times.

The fashion show must go on – “Italy’s fashion chamber, the Camera Nationale della Moda Italiana, issued its latest proposal with regard to the Fashion Week Scheduling Scandal of 2011. The brouhaha, which bubbled up in early October, started when Italy announced it would move up the dates of Milan Fashion week… Now, the Italian fashion council appears to have reverted back to their regularly scheduled programming.” In Wall Street Journal.

Time for a new shirt? – “Fashion can be exhilarating and trendy, but it’s also often fickle and fleeting. In order to attract attention and drive sales, apparel companies must continually design new and exciting products for demanding and fussy consumers. Apparel industry investments translate into value for shareholders only when they generate revenue growth.” In CFO

Too much demand, too little space: Vogue China – “The diminutive Angelica Cheung presides over Vogue China from her office in one of Beijing’s many tower blocks… This is a woman who – in the midst of a crisis that has pitted publishers against each other in a to-the-death fight for advertising ink – actually needs to continually increase editorial volume to keep up with advertising demands.” In Forbes.

Hall of fame: Patricia Field – “Patricia Field has always done things her way. With a career spanning 45 years and counting, the designer, stylist and boutique owner built her reputation by creating her own blueprint. ‘If you asked me who I looked up to from the beginning of my career, I would say no one,’ Field said. ‘I didn’t see fashion that way. I felt fashion.’” In WWD.

The pluck of the Irish: Orla Kiely – „The Irish designer known for her quirky, signature, retro stem prints, still gets excited when she sees someone wearing her brand. ‘It is nice that people like it enough to buy it,’ she says, sipping black coffee at her London store in Covent Garden, the first one to open in Europe in 2005.” In Wall Street Journal.

Opening the doors of Dior – “Saint Laurent, Chanel, Dior: the names of the most famous Paris houses sort of dance off the tongue. Their histories defeat the idea that younger generations might be bored with old things. And a stream of books and films helps to assure that they won’t be. “Dior Couture” (Rizzoli), by the photographer Patrick Demarchelier, is far and away the most gorgeous book on the house…What Mr. Demarchelier offers is a personal view of fashion from a great Paris house.” In NY Times.

One step beyond – „A range of brands is trying to inject some fun into the footwear universe by encouraging men to design their own shoes. Appealing to the special occasion-dresser and the repressed designer alike, these build-your-own concepts cost more than regular ready-to-wear styles but far less than a full bespoke service because they use a ready-to-wear last.” In Financial Times.

Black and white on black tie – „Where men’s formal dressing is concerned, a traditional and classic tuxedo just can’t be bettered. Columnist Tina Gaudoin offers several simple rules for black-tie purchasing and dressing.” In Wall Street Journal.