Lectura de sambata dimineata

New York Fashion Week fuse, fuse si se duse… Ieri au inceput show-urile din Londra, iar apoi ne mutam la Paris. Dar toate astea sunt departe si aspirationale (desi e interesant sa visezi ca maine primesti invitatie pentru primul rand – bine, pentru al doilea – al tuturor prezentarilor de moda, evah!) si fotografiile de prin reviste si de pe style.com ne vor umple sufletul de frumos, incantare dar si frustrare.

Pana una alta, eu zic sa coboram din nori, iar in week-endul asta sa mergem la Sosea (adica in parcul Kiseleff), sa descoperim frumusetea si povestile Bucurestiului de altadata. Carmen Gheorghita si Bucurestiul intr-o zi va asteapta acolo, Cand vi s-a facut foame, opriti-va la micuta French Bakery de langa piata 1 mai, si terminati-va plimbarea in roata mare (ei, nu chiar mare!) din Herastrau, poate mancand niste vata de zahar roz.

Si pentru ca tot vorbeam de Bucurestiul vechi si de bistrouri, la noi nu exista obiceiul de a citi ziarele de sambata/ duminica. Ce pacat. Dar asta nu inseamna ca nu putem trece, saptamanal, prin linkurile din lumea modei…

A new location that’s all in how you use it – “The tents are larger and certainly cleaner than those in Bryant Park, but they don’t necessarily improve the presentations. If [the]smallest, most intimate space at Lincoln Center can’t help the audience engage in the clothes, what hope is there… for American fashion?” In NY Times.

Emma Hill, the Mulberry designer – “Mulberry is a high end but also a quintessentially British brand. Hill herself, though, has spent most of her working in life in New York, designing bags for the likes of Marc Jacobs and Calvin Klein.” In The Guardian.

Luxury-goods firms turn up the volume on value – “Luxury-goods retailers are coming to grips with the reality that ‘aspirational’ shoppers, who blew open the high-end market by stretching their budgets during the boom, aren’t coming back any time soon.” Pe Wall Street Journal.

The genius of Alexander McQueen: how the boy from Stratford became the reigning monarch of Bristish style – „McQueen himself was an intensely private person who eschewed the social shenanigans that so often go hand-in-hand with his chosen craft, as if his existence depended on it.” In The Independent.

British fashion industry now worth nearly £21bn a year – “The research highlights not only the direct impact of the fashion industry, including wholesale, retail and manufacturing, on the economy but also its effect on other industries including financial services and tourism.” In The Guardian. Si pe aceeasi tema, un alt articol in The Telegraph.

From runway to retail – “After a New York Fashion Week of dramatic and extreme, if gorgeous, clothes strutting down the runways, now the outfits must become shirts, skirts and pants women will actually wear.” In Wall Street Journal.

Glamorously, Tom Ford is back – “Explaining why he didn’t allow pictures, Mr. Ford said that fashion had become overexposed in recent years… ‘I want fashion to be fun again… You couldn’t wait to get the clothes and put them on, and I think we’ve lost that.’” In NY Times.

Fashion is having a modest, even sensible, moment –  „Of some significance to those who care about such things: the so-called „it” bag, shoe, piece of costume jewellery and so forth is no more.” In The Independent.

The definitive guide on shoes for the new season – „Stiletto, chunky boots and kitten heels – there’s a shoe for every trouser shape and midi-skirt this season.” In The Telegraph.

The W word: designers try wearability – „Pressure from retailers to create more clothes that they can sell easily has encouraged designers to get real. So has the broad coverage of fashion shows, which allows the public to see and interpret the runways directly. ” In Wall Street Journal.

Facebook places campaign debut with Betsey Johnson – “A Betsey Johnson store in California and a novelties e-tailer will each launch Facebook Places campaigns… The location-based efforts represent the first-ever Places initiatives.” Pe ClickZ.

Does fashion make good theater? – “From a layman’s perspective, the jostling melee of entry, seating and the all-important photo-taking constitutes the liveliest part of the show. It’s a comedy of manners to rival anything on a Broadway stage.” Pe NY Times.

Down from the stratosphere, Gaga-free – “Fashion is having a post-crash dress-up fix. As if to tune out the futurists and the sportswear revivalists, and maybe have a little more fun, designers are fluffing hair, adding giant orchids and evoking the heady mauve warmth of an Antonio Lopez drawing.” In NY Times.

The rise and fall at NY Fashion Week – „One thing we have learned so far from the New York spring runways is that waistlines are rising and hemlines falling, and heaven help those with stubby legs. ” In T Magazine.

Designers embrace pale hues – „Following four seasons of cautious buying, luxury retailers have begun to see a light at the end of the tunnel. So it was only fitting that designers showing their spring 2011 collections in New York this week decided to fade to…white.” Pe Wall Street Journal.