Lectura de weekend

Iar a mai trecut o saptamana – si una plina! Probabil stiti de TEDx, WoW si festivalul de film est-european de la MTR, astazi mai puteti prinde Choco Fest si Dress to Impress. Urmeaza una si mai si, cu premiera miercuri la „Eat, Pray, Love”, un salon european al Benzilor Desenate si continua Les Filmes des Cannes la Studio, pana pe 21 octombrie.

Daca din cauza vremii nu va surade nici una dintre optiuni, pregatiti-va o cafea buna si ramaneti in casa sa cititi articolele saptamanii…

Lunch with Phoebe Philo – “Everyone was looking at me, and competition is fiercer because of what happened with the economy, but I also felt: it’s really not relevant to me what Céline has been or where it has been. It will be whatever I make it for the time I’m there.” In Financial Times.

The bombshell squad – „Black corsets, big hair, luscious lips: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have a firm belief in what makes an Italian beauty — even if she’s from Utah.” In T Magazine.

Luxury brands must push e-commerce harder this holiday season – “Luxury brands must use the reach and convenience afforded by online shopping to offset consumer restraint in the face of a still-tepid economy this holiday season.” Pe Luxury Daily.

The world of Yasmine Sewell, fashion retail consultant – „Australian-born Yasmin Sewell, 34, has been the chief creative consultant at Liberty of London since 2008. She was responsible for redesigning the store’s interior, and brought in more than 70 new brands before its relaunch in February last year. By August 2009 Liberty reported its biggest half-yearly profits for more than a decade. ”  In The Telegraph.

Chasing a fast-fashion knock off – „It happens every season: the knockoff that sends me scrambling; the capsule collection that leads me on a treasure hunt, online and off; the bargain that I’m willing to fly overseas for. Logic has nothing to do with it.” In NY Times.

How to bring in luxury shoppers –  “For a while, it seemed the ‘new normal’ for the luxury market would resemble the old one. Upscale retailers… logged impressive sales jumps in the first half of 2010, reflecting pent-up demand… But then something changed.” Pe JCK.

No ifs or buts:  jeans ads get blunt – “In what could be called a race to the bottom, some denim companies are breaking language taboos, not backing away from using crude language to describe the backside.” Pe Wall Street Journal.

Why pop-ups pop everywhere – “Temporary shops and restaurants were once a way for artists to subvert empty urban spaces. Now, they’re just as likely to be part of a corporate marketing strategy.” In The Guardian.

The man with the magic wand: John Kaliardos – „Kaliardos’ work is legendary within the industry: he works backstage across all the international fashion weeks; he is a famed creative talent on some of fashion’s biggest shoots; a publishing mogul, having co-founded the exclusive concept magazine Visionaire in 1991; and to top it all, an actor with his own troupe, the Innocent Theatre Company. He is, I suggest, the modern era’s ultimate Renaissance man.” In The Independent.

Older models are here to stay – „Fashion’s strongest leaders have finally acknowledged that women of all ages are their consumers, or should be. Instead of having to watch non-stop parades of seven-stone teenage zombies for 3 weeks, there were enough experienced women, working mothers and grandmothers out there roaming the runways to make it feel like „older” wasn’t just a novelty turn du saison .” In The Telegraph.

A head full of his dreams – „Though it was bad for business, it was perhaps a blessing for the English milliner Stephen Jones, now one of a handful of hat makers who has become famous in his own right, that the people of Belgium were not particularly receptive to his whimsical designs.” In NY Times.

Fashion’s most feared critic – “Cathy Horyn wields a pointed pen to (sometimes) skewer her subjects…Carolina Herrera, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Helmut Lang, Nicole Miller, and Oscar de la Renta have all banned Horyn and the Times from covering their collections at various points…None of this has seemed to faze the journalist, who, this fashion season, displayed her trademark ability to excite and infuriate.” Pe Daily Beast.

Is fast fashion killing fashion? – “Against such stellar growth it might seem strange to question whether a concept that’s so obviously popular and makes fashion accessible to a large number of people could also be killing the industry.” In Just Style.

Every finger tells a story –  „Minx has done manicures for many runway shows, creating zebra and Dalmatian designs for Alice + Olivia in New York and, most recently, a gold-dipped leather look for Alexander McQueen in Paris.” In NY Times.

Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman on luxury shopping – “Whilst some of us are tightening are belts, some of us are buying expensive ones. It seems for some people the age of austerity is now well and truly over…Alexandra Shulman, editor in chief of British Vogue told the BBC why people spend money on luxury brands.” Un scurt interviu video pe BBC.

Tommy Hilfiger debuts own digital radio – “The unique digital radio station will be broadcast seven days a week and 24 hours a day by a team of professional programmers, DJs and on-air disc jockeys from the Goom Radio studios in France and the US.” In The Independent.

The Italian jobber – „Federico Marchetti likes to compare himself to Caronte, the boatman who leads Dante into the underworld. He’s joking — sort of. Since June 2000, when he founded Yoox.com, the online merchant of discounted high-end clothes and accessories, Marchetti has been helping fashion labels navigate the Internet’s murky waters.”  In T Magazine.