Lectura de sambata dimineata

Primavara asta, mai vine vreodata? Ce credeti? Eu cred ca pana si fluturii s-au plictisit, asteptand soarele in ghemurile lor de matase, asa ca ce sa mai zic de noi… E adevarat ca „primavara” e si o stare de spirit, ca a inceput o luna noua si magica, dar pe mine m-ar ajuta si o schimbare de temperatura: mai mult soare (si soare adevarat), lumina, nu mai vreau paltoane, nu mai vreau sa mi se incalceasca cerceii in fulare si sa imi inghete mainile, vreau rochii multe si colorate, vreau coliere cu fluturi la gat, vreau parul lasat liber, vreau buline 🙂 Voi ce vreti?

Pe ale mele wish / to do lists figurau si niste proiecte si idei noi, ca vorba aceea – la sezon nou, haine noi si idei noi. Si uite ca sezonul meu chiar incepe in haine noi : pe 7 si 8 martie, intre orele 18 – 20.30, ma gasiti in Debenhams Vitan, pot sa fiu stilistul vostru personal 🙂 Daca aveti nevoie de un sfat pentru o tinuta noua, daca nu stiti ce croieli sau culori vi se potrivesc, daca nu v-ati dumirit ce din magazine e in tendinte, treceti prin magazin… Nu costa nimic, girls!

Pentru ca saptamana trecuta am fost prea obosita sa ma trezesc dimineata devreme si sa caut linkuri, astazi aveti o portie mare de recomandari printre care, evident, si povestea saptamanii, cu demiterea lui Galliano. BTW, aveti vreo parere despre asta – a fost corecta, nedreapta, grabita, ii va schimba cursul carierei sau imaginea, s-ar fi intamplat acelasi lucru daca Dior nu ar fi in Franta? Let me hear you…

Tears and applause at Dior – „The “petites mains,” or little hands — the atelier specialists who received a standing ovation at the end of the Dior autumn/winter 2011 show in Paris.” In NY Times.

Galliano’s departure from Dior ends a wild fashion ride – “John Galliano’s departure as design director at Christian Dior brings to an end a wild fashion ride, in which grace, glamour and shock, in equal measure, sent the once conservative Parisian house leaping forward both in its image and its financial success.” In International Herald Tribune.

Catherine vs. Kate – “The marriages this year of Kate and Kate — the future Princess Catherine and the rock-on model Kate Moss — are stirring excitement in Britain… [LFW] is doing its best to deliver. As the liveliest city in the lineup of autumn 2011 show locations, there are designers to suit every need, from royal wedding to Goth glamour.” In International Herald Tribune.

Surface attraction – “Sculpted shapes, clean lines and modernist architecture — why is the fashion ‘streamlining’ of today any different from its previous incarnations of the 1930s to the 1990s?… The answer lies on the surface. A combination of hyper-modern fabrics and imaginative decoration is giving 21st-century style a third dimension.” In NY Times.

A fresh breeze of change – “This gentle zephyr is bringing a new fashion attitude. Out goes outré, excess and over-elaborate shows. In comes the quiet, no-fuss presentation of pleasing clothes. Freshness is the best word to describe what seems of the moment. Add to that ‘decency,’ meaning that any hint of ‘vulgarity chic’ has gone — and you get the new mood.” In NY Times.

Will galoshes make a splash again? – „Nothing yells overshoes like sloppy weather, and this year’s has galosh visionaries believing April showers may finally be coming their way.”In Wall Street Journal.

America’s got talent – “The British may be invading the American media – from Anna Wintour to Piers Morgan – but there’s a reverse invasion happening too. In recent years, American brand and retail executives have become hot properties for British luxury brands with an eye on global expansion.” In Financial Times.

Britain’s new queen of fashion – “When Sue Whiteley was 13, she bunked off school and went to buy a pair of designer trousers, having saved up her pocket money for six months. Today, some 30 years later, she bestrides the world of luxury fashion, as the newly announced head of Givenchy… [Within] LVMH, Givenchy is second only to Dior.” In Evening Standard.

Custom tailors enjoying a boom –  “‘People have come to realize that the expensive designer suit they are used to buying is made to fit a thousand other people,’ says Rome-based tailor Luigi Gallo, who has been in the trade for more than 30 years. ‘In addition, they’re paying a huge price for that logo sewed into the jacket.’” In Wall Street Journal.

The middle blingdom – “Many Chinese people still remember the days when luxury meant a short queue for the toilet at the end of the street, or a bus conductor who wasn’t excessively rude. Before the economy opened up, a chic suit meant one with the label of a state-owned factory sewn ostentatiously on the sleeve. How times change.” In The Economist.

English, with irony – “Yet although there have been the usual glancing references to tweed, cable knits, plaids and country clothes, the real story lies with a young, techno-savvy generation. The prints that grow more sophisticated each season are light-years from the classic patterns of roses ’round the door. But they are only a click away from a student with a smartphone and digital skills.” In NY Times.

A conversation with Todd’s owner Diego della Valle –  “As the fashion flock moves to Milan for the fall/winter 2011 collections, Tod’s chairman Diego Della Valle, fondly called the Italian Ralph Lauren, talks about his life-long pursuit of Italian excellence, the reason why he bought shares at Saks and his part in keeping the Kennedy legacy alive.” In Huffington Post.

Material girls: designers trim hemlines, costs – “Bad weather in major producing regions, tight supplies and inflation have pushed prices of cotton to new, all-time highs. The cost of silk, wool and leather has also soared…. Having survived the recession, designers and retailers are wary of trying to pass along price increases to skittish shoppers.” Pe Wall Street Journal.

When youth is the holy grail – “Growing up is hard to do, when youth is the holy grail of British fashion. Seats are filled with imaginatively dressed young Londoners, who are design inspirations even before the show kicks off. And while other European capitals are short on fresh talent, the focus of the London scene is the ‘New Gen’.” In NY Times.

Eight must-know fashion show producers –  “[As] blogger’s, stylists and PR teams move across to Milan, we bring you a round up of the must-know event producers behind the catwalks… We investigated major fashion show producers and present a selection from around the globe.” In Luxury Society.

McQueen continues to cast spell – “Alexander McQueen, who died a week before last year’s London Fashion Week, was remembered at a launch event for the forthcoming retrospective of the designer’s work at New York’s Metropolitan Museum. Vogue editor Anna Wintour and the ubiquitous Samantha Cameron gathered with press at the Ritz hotel.” In The Independent

In Milan, trying to leap the obstacles – “Maybe reality is always too unreal without time to reflect, but the problem now seems acute for designers. Many say they don’t have time to design in the traditional sense: exploring new fabrics and shapes. Some have unusual corporate pressures. Their instinct, then, is not to look around them but to adapt the myths of the last few hundred years, be they Mods, flappers or horse-riding dukes.” In NY Times.

And Poof! a new clothing label – “‘I thought about doing an archive revival mini-capsule collection,’ explained Ms. Kennedy, but she eventually chose new pieces by 10 alumni designers that she felt were both saleable and representative of Fashion East’s history… Lulu & Co. is stocked by Collette in Paris and Harvey Nichols in London, and Ms. Kennedy says she now looks forward to growing the line in coming seasons.” In NY Times.

Pierre Rougier, the man behind the curtain – “His name may be unfamiliar, but his clients’, including Yves Saint Laurent, Versace and Jil Sander, are not…. As founder of PR Consulting, the New York–based public-relations agency that manages the image and press coverage of a stable of exclusive brands… his job is to keep the Americans, whose critical opinions drive international buying trends, in line.” In Wall Street Journal.

Chloe Sevigny interviews Proenza Schouler – “It has been nearly nine years since Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez-both 23 and fresh out of design school… Their almost instantaneous rise through the realms of the fashion world as Proenza Schouler-seemingly so unscripted that they hardly had a business model when they began-is the stuff of lightning New York success stories.” In Interview.

20 odd questions for Jason Wu – „The designer of delicate confections—most notably, Mrs. O.’s inaugural dress—reveals his new accessories collection and his inner homemaker.” In Wall Street Journal.

Fashion retailer ASOS sets up shop on Facebook – “The U.K. clothing site is the first European fashion retailer to open an e-tailing outpost inside the social network… the hip, London-based online clothing site became the first European fashion retailer to open an e-tailing outpost inside Facebook. Competitors such as Gap and Inditex’s Zara use the networking site largely to communicate with fans.” In Business Week.

Sleek and luxe – “‘I wanted to play with color, a little of the 1970s and a lot of irony,’ said Ms. Giannini backstage, after the parade of fabulous Ms. Fox furs in turquoise, purple, rust and lilac wrapped around the shoulders above slim leather dresses or those sporty jackets with pleated culotte skirts that looked a lot like Yves Saint Laurent archives updated.” In NY Times.

The runway shift to lavish ornamentation – „After a wave of minimalism, some designers are reacting to the rebounding luxury-goods market by delivering clothing with intricate beadwork and embroidery.” In Wall Street Journal.