De Irina Markovits 30 iunie 2012 in The Stylish Bookshelf

Lectura de sambata dimineata

Astazi nu va mai dau nici un citat din Ionel Teodoreanu, dar va invit sa cititi cateva paragrafe dintr-o biografie amuzanta si anecdotica (numai buna pentru vara) despre Chanel, publicata de editura Ponte. Daca veti citi cartea, poate veti intelege ce anume a facut ca viata si creatiile ei sa fie fascinante (personal, eu inca cred ca tot ce a fost si este legat de ea este hiberbolizat). Daca nu, in mod cert veti ramane cu cateva informatii interesante sau picante despre perioada in care a trait, despre cum gandea eleganta, feminitatea, stilul. Saptamana urmatoare am sa va fac o recenzie, dar acum va las cu niste randuri alese aleatoriu.

„Dupa ce a inteles ca poate rasturna mai mult sau mai putin de una singura […] institutia palariei-platou de douazeci de lire cu ajutorul obraznicelor ei canotiere ieftine, a hotarat ca poate face la fel cu intreaga moda feminina. Pourquoi pas? Principiul era acelasi, doar ca la o scara mai mare. Asemenea unei printese razboinice, cucerise un mic teritoriu, ca antrenament pentru unul mai mare.

Era vara anului 1914, prima vara tulbure a Primului Razboi Mondial, si toti cei care puteau fugisera din Paris la Deauville, o statiune sic de pe coasta de nord-est a Frantei, renumita pentru hipodrom, cazino si grandioasele hoteluri. Chanel (cu ajutorul noului ei iubit, Boy Capel) a deschis aici Chanel Modes, pe strada care lega cel mai luxos hotel din oras de Grand Casino, si a inceput sa vanda fustite si cardigane asortate. ”

Fashion to embrace social gaming – “Interactive gaming is shaping up to be fashion’s next frontier in the digital space after companies broadened their Web sites with editorial content, then mobile commerce and social commerce… ‘Gamification in fashion presents an enormous opportunity to communicate with and deeply engage loyal consumers.’” In WWD

Fashion and art: jumping into bed to make money together – “Fashion designers increasingly attract the kinds of crowds once reserved for Picasso, Matisse, or da Vinci. These days, all manner of fashion — new and old, classic and weird, kitsch, extravagant, absurd and glamorous – brings them in droves to marvel over shoes, dresses, perfumes, and purses by instantly recognizable luxury brands, whose goods get validated as art.” In Forbes.

Pierre Berge: „Yves died at the right time” – “I didn’t know very much about fashion at that time. I was a very close friend of Christian’s and of some other haute couture masters like Balenciaga, but for me fashion was not an art. In my eyes, it was just something to make money.” In The Talks.

How Uniqlo plans to take over casual fashion – “Uniqlo is gaining on Zara, H&M, and Gap as the world’s king of casual clothing. But can Tadashi Yanai ride toasty, dry underwear to $50 billion in revenue by 2020?” In Fast Company.

Mary Katrantzou talks pencils, patronage and Prada – “Mary Katrantzou’s USP is the kaleidoscopic digital print; past seasons have seen her put koi karp on the catwalk and spoons on skirts. So masterful is her command of tromp l’oeil, that at times it undermines her couture-like craftsmanship.” In The Telegraph.

Online appeals to the males of the species – “With its enviable growth forecast to continue through 2012 and beyond, men’s fashion looks more and more like a bountiful land of opportunity just waiting to be conquered. Ultimately, however, victory may well be determined by men at the online checkout.” In NY Times.

Luxury trunks, reinvented– „The brand was relaunched last year after luxury goods magnate Bernard Arnault acquired the name, which had lain dormant for decades after closing up shop in 1976. „Our only ambition is quality,” says company president Guillaume Davin. „When Mr. Arnault asked me to manage Moynat Malletier, he asked for one thing: ‘Make me dream!’ ” In T Magazine.

The art of phone self-portrait – „Not since the days of Picasso has self-portraiture been so prevalent. Smartphones’ high-quality built-in cameras and easy access to picture-enhancing apps are making „selfies” a ubiquitous form of self-expression among social-media users. ” In Wall Street Journal.

Polka dots are in? Polka dots it is! – “If you’ve ever shopped at Zara, the ubiquitous clothing chain, you may have noticed its trendy offerings are not just up-to-the-minute but up-to-the-instant… How does Zara do it? Operations. Supply chain management is the key to Zara’s corporate strategy.” In Slate.

The luxury middle ground returns – “So after all the chat about the current economic situation driving a polarisation of price-points – either super-high-end luxury or cheapo Uniqlo – Euromonitor has come out with some research that begs to differ.” In Material World.

Marion Cottilard’s sultry side – „Cotillard’s appreciation for fashion developed only recently, after she became a face for Christian Dior ad campaigns. Still, she tends to limit her high-fashion moments—like the subtly textural evening gowns she wears in this issue – to the red carpet.” In T Magazine.

Nasty Gal’ Sophia Amoruso: fashion’s new phenom – “In four years her spunky retail fashion site has streaked across the Web, pushing new ways to sell trendy but inexpensive clothing. The company is on its way to quadrupling sales this year to $128 million, racking up gross margins of more than 60%, up there with retail’s most profitable ventures.” In Forbes.