Lectura de sambata dimineata

Am simtit-o alaltaieri dimineata, acea imperceptibila trecere dintre sezoane. Aerul era mai rece si cerul un altfel de albastru, soarele stralucea altfel, umbrele erau mai lungi…

A venit toamna, chiar daca ceea ce purtam sunt tot rochii subtiri, flori in par, sandale, bronz auriu si ochelari de soare. Incetul cu incetul, ne invelim in tricotaje, adaugam esarfe, schimbam lipglossul cu un ruj, bem ceaiuri seara, purtam sosete si ne stergem nasul discret. Poate si citim mai mult…?

„The world of clothes and the world of nakedness are so far apart, that the body clothed and the body unclothed often seem like the meeting of a cheetah and a slow-worm, each starring in animal incomprehension at the other. We are hardly ever naked. We almost never look at ourselves in the mirror undressed. At least not after the age of 20. We don’t know how we look like.And that’s fine, because apart from our sexual partners or the few moments between clothes at gym changing rooms, no one ever sees us without them. We are, in visual terms, definitely what we wear.”

Fashion’s new order – “For  much of the 20th century, the seating chart of a runway show gave a fairly accurate reading of power in the fashion industry. The press on one side, retailers on the other; editors and buyers prioritized neatly from front row to last. But so much has changed in the new millennium…” In NY Times.

East European fashion labels aim for the world stage – “Around emerging Europe, where garment assembly for Western brands has been a thriving business for years, there is a new confidence that local designs also have a chance on the world stage.” Pe Reuters

Why the fashion industry watches the Lululemon vs Calvin Klein lawsuit – “Lululemon announced last month it’s suing Calvin Klein for allegedly copying its ‘Astro’ yoga pants. The yoga retail alleged that Calvin Klein violated patents of the unusual waistband and design of the pants.” In Financial Post.

Virtual models could be the future of online shopping – “For online fashion retailers, displaying an ever-changing selection of clothing can pose a major logistical and financial challenge. Enter virtual models… Looklet, a Sweden-based design company, is already working with major online fashion retailers like H&M and Vente-Privee to present their stock on virtual clotheshorses.” In Business Insider.

Zegna hires designer from YSL to bolster brand – “The Italian men’s wear company Ermenegildo Zegna moved on Tuesday to strengthen its core brand and breathe new life into its little-known women’s fashion line by hiring a designer best known for his work at Yves Saint Laurent.” In NY Times.

The trade-offs of trading online – “Times are changing: luxury boutiques are cropping up in malls in cities big and small; high-end labels are offering low-end creations at retailers like Zara, H&M and Topshop; and, little by little, premium boutiques are morphing into sales-churning online shops.” In The Genteel.

Mickey Drexler: king of casual chic – “With a sobriquet like “Merchant Prince,” you might expect J.Crew Chief Executive and Chairman Millard (Mickey) Drexler to have a biography that extends to at least four pages. Instead, it is precisely four short paragraphs.” In Wall Street Journal.

An intellectual fashion: Carine Roitfeld – “Carine Roitfeld is one of the most famous faces and minds of contemporary fashion. She began her career as a model and muse for the photographer Mario Testino, and participated in the making of the ‘erotic chic’ trend in the late 1990s.” In AnOther.

The couple that sews together, grows together – “Designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi have quite a month ahead of them. On Sunday, they make a highly anticipated return to the London schedule, their first show in the capital since taking their label Preen to New York Fashion Week five years ago.” In The Independent

Where did the free spirits go? – “The Friday and Saturday shows of Fashion Week used to be a solid source of cool, a look-forward-to spree of messiness and mischief before the grown-ups demanded our attention. But lately, instead of being truly free-spirited, some of these designers have begun to seem as malevolently insistent as an Oompa Loompa chanting, ‘If you are wise, you’ll follow me.’” In NY Times.