Lectura de sambata dimineata

„The winter of 1846-47 was bitter beyond belief, the coldest of the century. Siberian winds blew in across Europe. In Milan, two men froze to death and the Straits of Devon recorded the lowest temperature on the continent. Wrapped in furs to cover their meagre, government-approved, Austerity suits and dresses purchased with clothing ration coupons, British fashion editors sat on their gilt chairs and watched not just a total change in the silhouette, but a completely new idea of what to wear. At the end of the show, Carmel Snow, the elderly editor of Harper’s Bazaar, pronounced it as „a whole new look”. And that was that. The imperium has spoken.

Five days later, the novelist Nancy Mitford, who had sat out the war in Paris in order to be with her French lover, would write to her sister Diana Mosley that her life had been made a desert of gloom, for now all her clothes had been rendered – at a stroke – unwearable. Customers, she wrote, were fighting over Dior’s dresses and it was like a scene at a bargain basement sale just trying to place an order.”

Excelent scrisa, cartea Alexandrei Palmer despre Dior este unul dintre cadourile acestei saptamani. Nu trebuie sa va pasioneze istoria modei ca sa v-o doriti, e suficient sa vreti sa cititi despre unul dintre putinii designeri carein doar 22 de colectii si in 10 ani au revolutionalizat cu adevarat moda, despre prima casa de moda care a modificat traseul haute couture, despre primul brand al carui succes a insemnat nu doar vestimentatie dar si blanuri, parfumuri, palarii, accesorii, bijuterii, cravate, ceramica, piese de design interior.

Incantator cadoul venit din partea Books Express, pentru inceputul de primavara, nu-i asa? Daca acesta e un cadou care se adreseaza gradinii voastre sufletesti, zilele astea mai gasiti pe Style Diary inca un cadou, de alta natura, care se adreseaza celorlalte simturi ale voastre.

O zi de desfatari, care incepe la Hotel Epoque cu un tratament la un spa de 5 stele, continua cu o sedinta de shopping la Yokko si se incheie seara cu un cocktail party, in acelasi hotel boutique. Hmmmm, it makes you dream, right? Cineva o sa isi petreaca ziua impreuna cu mine, intr-o escapade aux beaux reves…

Haideti acum sa citim cateva lucruri frumoasa, inainte sa ne lasam iarasi prinse in vartejul zilei, responsabilitatilor, curateniei de weekend, vizitelor…

Donna Karan’s creative flow – „Of all the many ironies in her life, perhaps the most savoury is that Donna Karan – the doyenne of the drapy dress, jacket and tunic, beloved by millions for her forgiving, pragmatic yet glamorous clothes, richer by scores of millions of dollars because of them – failed draping at Parsons, New York’s world-renowned art and design school.” In The Telegraph.

Old tricks up new sleeves – „The younger designers of Paris, like those of New York, are entering a difficult phase in their careers, when the novelty of their good looks and flashy fashion wears off and they begin to face the reality that they have to sell some of these clothes. So they try new things … like, you know, sweaters.” In NY Times.

Jewel personalities – „Brands are turning to stars with big social media followings to promote their wares . When Fabergé recently placed its Treillage collection on Olivia Palermo, Erin O’Connor and Andrea Riseborough, the jewels sold briskly.  The brand has found that celebrity endorsement online has translated effectively internationally and, more importantly, into new markets.” In Financial Times.

The Oscars: who decides who wears what? – „Sunday night’s Academy Awards are perhaps the most frenzied red-carpet event of the year, famously worth thousands of dollars of publicity to the lucky brands that clothe the best-dressed of the night. But who actually decides who wears what? Not, as we all know, the celebrities themselves, who are largely dependent on the advice of personal stylists: professionals who have often decided what labels should compete for which nominees, and beyond that, what dress or tux makes the final cut.” In Financial Times.

A somptuous minimalist – „Joseph Dirand is the go-to architect when fashion houses seek to create luxurious retail spaces with a modern twist” In WSJ Magazine

The secret weapon behind Rihanna’s look – ” After the Rihanna for River Island presentation during London Fashion Week, its namesake designer, the biggest pop star on the planet, came out for a bow. Accompanying her was a boyish, mustachioed fellow. Most of the audience had no clue who he was. Beaming, he turned to Rihanna and applauded. This was Adam Selman, Rihanna’s costume designer, who worked with her on the collection” In NY Times.

Italian designers celebrate sartorial craft at Milan Shows – „Italian designers put craftsmanship before reckless glamour at the Milan fashion week, in a bid to defend their tailoring tradition in the face of global competition.”  Pe Reuters.

Dark looks rule Milan catwalks for autumn/ winter 2013 –  „Fashion designers at Milan fashion week delivered a dark palette and masculine styles for autumn-winter wardrobes in a reflection of Italy’s bleak economic and political landscape.” Pe Reuters.

In Milan, all that glitters and slithers – „The fall 2013 collections were rife with opulence. Crocodile jackets, python cocktail dresses and mink shoes stood out, even as a new voluminous silhouette set the shape of high fashion for fall.” In Wall Street Journal.

The diary of a white show – „Apart from in the factory that makes Barbie’s accessories, it is an established fashion truth that white shoes are not a good look. Except when they are. This is when they are worn in an Ironically Chic vein. ” In The Telegraph.

Defining „luxury” across the world – „An annual wealth survey examines cities with sky-high property prices and shows that living the high life can also wear out one’s ATM card” In WSJ Magazine.