Lectura de sambata dimineata

E momentul sa va faceti ordine in dulap. Sa va triati garderoba, sa puneti la pastrare, timp de jumatate de an, rochiile vaporoase, sacourile din in, fustele subtiri. In locul lor, aduceti in dulap puloverele subtiri, cardiganuri cu torsade, esarfe pentru diminetile racoroase, rochiile cu maneci trei-sferturi…

E momentul sa va faceti si ordine in ganduri: cum vreti sa va imbracati in toamna asta, cum vreti sa va reprezentati prin vestimentatie, ce sunteti dispuse sa schimbati… Doar nu mai sunteti aceeasi persoana de acum un an, nu-i asa?

Inainte sa va las cu recomandarile de lectura si un citat minunat, cateva foarte scurte update-uri:

– urmatorul Style Conversations (#8), „O garderoba pentru 4 sezoane”, va fi organizat in 12 octombrie.

– luni dau startul unui nou concurs, impreuna cu Books Express, premiul este o carte-bijuterie, „The Little Black Dress”, cu o tona de fotografii close-up a rochiilor prezentate in expozitia cu acelasi nume de la SCAD Museum of Art.

– sunt in toiul pregatirilor pentru editia de toamna a cursului „Fii propria ta stilista”, se va tine in ultimul weekend din octombrie (26-27).  Inscrierile se deschid in cursul saptamanii urmatoare, vor fi disponibile doar 15 locuri, imi puteti scrie la office(at)imagematters(punct)ro.

„When I open the doors of my cramped wardrobe with its jammed rails, the clear plastic bags containing cashmere sweaters sheltering against the predatory attention of moths, the handbags in their own cotton bags, the folded jeans, the rows of colours (black, purples, greens, browns, navy, white), the coats, the dresses, the jackets, the tops, I see a frozen frame. Me, spring 2008. This is the size I am. This is what I own.

There are nostalgic items I do not wear but do not want to throw away, and there are things that don’t fit, and things that don’t suit me, and things that were always a mistake, and things I mean to wear but don’t, and the workhorses of my wardrobe…

Out of the items in the wardrobe, I will select the items that make up the self I plan to be that day. But in the wardrobe there are also ghosts, absences, gaps and memories. The clothes I have owned have been an intimate and significant portion of my life. I have been another person when I wore them.”

Sa aveti o sambata minunata, iesiti din casa si bucurati-va de auriul din aer!

Azzedine Alaïa: the king of couture – „The dresses he shapes and sculpts, with their strong relationship to the body, have in the opinion of many costume historians changed notions of femininity to such a point that Alaïa can be considered the source of some of the 1980s main fashion changes” In Financial Times.

Fashion Victim First Aid kit – „Calling someone a „fashion victim” used to be the ultimate insult. Now, at the entrance to any fashion show or red carpet event, hordes of „victims” are to be seen preening, pouting and posing for the prowling cameras and bloggers.” In Wall Street Journal.

Models: whatever happened to our good-time girls? – „In the old days – I’m talking antediluvian, back in the early 90s – there was only ever one topic of conversation in fashion. The Supers. Or rather how much the Supers were or weren’t getting out of bed for. Which celebrity they were dating. Which artist they’d just begun collecting (or dating).”In The Telegraph.

Biker jacket: this season’s most wanted style – „It is the ultimate trans-seasonal cover-up, it suits all ages, makes a good investment that will only get better with wear and, in a season with a whiff of rebellion about it, adds a cool edge to even the most conservative look.” In Financial Times.

The moment when fashion clicks -„Even hard-to-impress fashion-week veterans take photos of, and post to Instagram, the runway tricks known as „Instabait.” In Wall Street Journal.

Gucci goes big for Milan Fashion Week – “This is never more obvious than in the case of Gucci, where the lustre is both financial (Gucci is the engine that powers the Kering luxury group) and aesthetic. It’s no coincidence that the show marks the real start of the week: it represents, reliably, the high-gloss upside.” In Financial Times.

Pilati enters a new universe – “At 60 years young, Agnona, founded in 1953 and part of the Ermenegildo Zegna luxury group, is beginning a new life to make it into what Gildo Zegna, the company’s chief executive, calls a “complete collection” — from fully tailored wool jackets to light dresses in printed silk organza.” In NY Times.

Costume designers for TV have a big impact on fashion – “Today, even successful movie costume designers like Catherine Martin, who did the designs for ‘The Great Gatsby,’ and Trish Summerville who is doing the next ‘Hunger Games’ movie and will sell a line, Capitol Couture by Trish Summerville, on Net-a-Porter, don’t exactly cut outsize figures.” In NY Times.

The return of the skirt suit – „The fashion industry loves a flashback and, unpredictably, some of that fun factor may well be linked to this office relic. For fall, the two-piece skirt suit was resurrected with near-uniform enthusiasm in collections from Prada, Proenza Schouler, Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana, Dior and Rochas.” In Wall Street Journal.