Lectura de sambata dimineata

„A sense of rightness. That may be as good a definition of style as any. Much like listening to a great piece of music, bearing witness to style can take you to unexpected places. It’s a journey that could take you from the eccentricity of the late Isabella Blow, with her penchant for lobster hats, to the rigorous austerity of Wallis Simpson. Or from the edgy prettiness of Alexa Chung to the funky sleekness of Tory Burch. And no matter the exact spot, it leaves you satisfied with its internal logic.

If that sounds elusive, bear with me. Style IS elusive. Sometimes it’s easier defined by what it isn’t. It isn’t the same as being well-dressed, which is a worthy but less exalted state that can be achieved via a personal stylist. It’s different from being chic, which, while a laudable and enviable trait, implies a certain severity and strictness. Certain women – Katherine Hepburn and Coco Chanel come to mind – sometimes possess both. More intriguingly, style has nothing to do with conventional beauty. Diana Vreeland, the legendary fashion editor of Harper’s Bazaar, was a jolie laide. And while many fashionable women aren’t necessarily stylish, stylish women always look fashionable: they use fashion as their gateway to style, always keep in mind what flatters their body and don’t follow trends slavishly.”

Aseara, o discutie despre feminitate, stil personal sau vestimenta si declicurile noastre emotionale m-a facut sa ma gandesc la cat de usor ne este sa ne transformam, organizam, planificam, vizualizam diverse aspecte ale vietii noastre – cum mobilam un spatiu, ce dieta vrem sa urmam si cat timp, cum ne selectam prietenii si activitatile de timp liber, cum renuntam la fumat sau citirea horoscopului zilnic – , fata de cat de dificil ne este sa ne ocupam de imaginea noastra. Dulapurile ne sunt un haos, imbracatul de dimineata o povara. O zi de shoppingul ajunge sa fie un cosmar stresant, iar ideea unui efort stilistic – a alege o haina diferita, a purta o combinatie vestimentara diferita, a incerca o alaturare nou de culori – ne dezumfla.

Intr-o lume ideala, n-ar trebui sa fie asa. Ar fi frumos sa ne cultivam interesul pentru feminitate si pentru un aspect placut, in mod constant -a stfel incat sa devina un reflex, nu sa fie un efort. Culmea e ca putem face asta, trebuie doar sa vrem. Sigur, ar trebui sa renuntam la alte lucruri – statul ore in sir la televizor sau pe facebook spring to mind, duh… Oh, cate am putea face in timpul acela! Din pacate, nimeni nu are „timp de vanzare”, dar cred ca eu v-as putea oferi cateva idei si sprijin pentru cum sa incepeti sa va ocupati de voi.  Strategii de ianuarie este primul workshop Style Conversations al acestui an – vom discuta despre ce si cum va propuneti sa realizati in 2014 din perspectiva stilistica (poate si personala?),  vom puncta strategii de shopping in sales, va voi da sfaturi pentru un detox de garderoba la inceput de an si idei pentru cum puteti face un make-over pe cont propriu.

Iar acum, pana nu dispare soarele, haideti sa citim cele mai bune articole despre moda din ultima saptamana.

The year in fashion – „From ‘fur-kenstocks’ to Kurt Cobainish flannels, a his-and-hers run through of the best of 2013.” In Wall Street Journal.

An interview with Vanessa Friedman – „The way I use the word “fashion” is dress-specific, whereas “style” is a 
larger aesthetic choice. It can refer to a way of thinking, a value-system, 
how you decorate your home…” In AnOther Magazine

Skirts and shell suits: a brave new world for men’s fashion? – „Robes and the ubiquitous skirt-for-men fought for attention in London’s showcase of masculine couture. But while innovation is predictably irritating, this is how the future will look.” In The Independent.

Fashion editor Robert Rabensteiner: „It’s all related to dreams” – „I’m more sure of myself today than I was 10 years ago. I work with one of the biggest editors in chief in the world (Franca Sozzani of Vogue Italia) and I’ve learned a lot working with her. My success was a 15 year long process.” In The Talks.

DVF’s classic dress – „As an LA exhibition marks 40 years since Diane von Furstenberg created the wrap dress, some of its admirers tell their stories about this modern classic” In Financial Times.

Inside with the outsiders – “For all [New York’s] cliques, there is a look. And for all of those looks, there is the new Dover Street Market, the brainchild of Rei Kawakubo, the creative mind behind Comme des Garçons, who has gathered all the outsiders under one roof for the purposes of commiseration and, just maybe, crossbreeding.” In NY Times.

The force behind Dior’s jewelry – „The rarified world of fine jewelry is usually a serious domain, except when designer Victoire de Castellane is in charge. Welcome to her exuberant universe of Technicolor gems.” In Wall Street Journal.

Madame de Florian abandoned apartment – „From 1942 then, until a wintery December afternoon in 2010 – when it was entered by auctioneer Olivier Choppin-Janvry – the decadent apartment remained frozen in time, a time capsule recording the precise moment of de Florian’s sudden flight.” In AnOther Magazine.

Lingerie’s moment – „Fashion is in the throes of revisiting all things 1990s, from grunge (see Dries Van Noten’s jewelled flannel shirts, Junya Watanabe’s denims and Vivienne Westwood’s artfully frayed knits) to the ubiquitous platform trainers (Giuseppe Zanotti, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Christian Louboutin). So perhaps it’s no surprise that the underwear-as-outerwear trend is back.” In Financial Times.

How female corpses became  a fashion trend – “Beautiful women posed as dead bodies are an advertising campaign staple, including the new Marc Jacobs shoot starring Miley Cyrus. Why does fashion fetishise the female corpse?” In The Guardian

Don’t write off fashion bloggers – „Blogger. The term itself has become one of fashion’s dirtiest words, a catchall axiom for superfluous clingers-on and fashion riff-raff. But why exactly is the blame for the bi-annual circus that fashion week has become — including overstuffed shows, fashion peacocks and Sartorialist-wannabes — falling on the shoulders of well-meaning bloggers?” In BOF.

The Investment Dresser: do I make myself perfectly plain? – „Forget embellishment. A plain jumper is the ultimate touch of class” In The Telegraph.