Lectura de sambata dimineata

Mai in gluma, mai in serios, ieri a fost 1 aprilie. 1 aprilie, ceea ce inseamna ca a trecut o treime din acest an, 90 de zile, 12 saptamani. Sper din tot sufletul ca ati realizat ceva semnificativ (pentru voi) in astea 3 luni, iar daca nu puteti bifa ceva BIG de pe lista vietii voastre din 2011, ar trebui macar sa va scrieti acea lista. Vorba pisicii de Cheshire: „Where do you want to go?” asked the Cheshire cat. „I don’t know,” Alice answered. „Then,” said the cat, „it doesn’t matter.”

Daca pe lista to do-urile de acest an figureaza si o schimbare de garderoba sau de imagine,  treceti si pe aici: poate un curs de stil e instrumentul de care ai nevoie ca sa te vezi altfel.

Daca sunteti, ca mine, obosite dupa o saptamana incredibil de scurta si de aglomerata, faceti-va timp pentru un somn de frumusete, un brunch lung, o vizita la piata de flori, o carte buna sau un film interesant sau, pur si simplu, momente de visare cu ochii deschisi. Daca insa sunteti cu ochii larg deschisi, cititi si recomandarile mele…

Alexander Wang on building his fashionable family empire – “Time passes faster and faster, but with every project I always want to find the next challenge and the next challenge is just as exciting as the previous one. So, like, I push myself and as the company grows and things get bigger and bigger and bigger.” In The Telegraph.

Rick Owens, the prince of dark design – “In a fashion climate ruled by luxury-goods conglomerates and an excess of merchandise that is both overwhelming and, increasingly, banal, Owens’ less-than-conventional career trajectory – his business turned over more than $50m last year – is an inspiration. ” In The Independent.

Brand Anna – „The editor of Vogue has always occupied the most powerful seat in the world of American fashion. But Anna Wintour’s web of influential friends and allies has helped turn her into a global brand that transcends fashion.”In Wall Street Journal.

What your watch says about you – „As an indicator of one’s status or taste – or lack thereof – watches have become the new shorthand. Previously, anything more obscure than a Timex or an Accurist was appreciated only by cognoscenti. Watches were far too small to be in-your-face indicators of serious wealth.” In NY Times.

Peter Marino, the leader of the pack – “In an industry with the collective attention span of a fruit fly, Marino has enjoyed an improbably long run. Known for creating modern retail spaces with varying degrees of glamour, from understated to full-frontal, Marino has become the keeper of brand identities.” In WWD.
The perfect fit: the rise of sportswear –  “Athletic brands are realising the potential benefits of making sports wear that is stylish as well as functional. They are even tapping into catwalk trends… This time last year ready-to-wear designers such as Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs were unveiling their take on sports, and now sports wear makers have reciprocated.” In Financial Times.

New life for the historic art of lace-making – „The return of lace as a major fashion trend is giving a boost to a once-faltering European business. Looking nothing like your grandmother’s doilies, lace is the fabric of whole dresses and suits for summer, as well as next fall. Lace hasn’t been this popular since Queen Victoria sat on the throne.” In NY Times.

Jane Pratt plots her comeback – “In the next two months, she will launch JanePratt.com, a Web site aimed at the gulf between the Cosmopolitans and Jezebels of the world. Then, in the summer, she will team up with Gevinson to introduce a magazine and a Web site for teenaged girls.” In WWD.

A safe walk in the dark – „I liked where they sat on the spectrum of summer shoes: tall enough to keep your naked feet elevated above filthy New York sidewalks and sexy, but with a bit of growl and bite to them — something Tank Girl might wear to a Brooklyn tailgate party.” In NY Times.

The tribes of Westwood, Owens and Demeleumeester – “While some designers tend to beat to the drum of being on-trend, others have already cultivated their own communities and are even referencing it within their collections. In the recent Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens and Vivienne Westwood collections you feel that they are speaking in a language that their customers already know and understand.” In Cutting Class.

Italian industry must look beyond protectionism – “Why does a country such as Italy, with its talent in luxury goods and craftsmanship, not have a global luxury group to match LVMH and PPR in France, or Richemont in Switzerland? Italian industry needs vision more than patriotism.” In Financial Times.

A tribute to Elizabeth Taylor – “When it came to style, Elizabeth Taylor was fearless. The diamonds, the hair, the cleavage: She rocked it out everywhere she went. In her younger days, she favored plunging necklines with straps poised to slip off her shoulders, her hair like a dark cloud around her thickly made-up eyes.” In The Cut.

At Mugler, genius and its limits – “Mr. Formichetti’s show was not a work of genius, but it was a show about genius in the present moment — its limits, its futility. If Paris couture is about history, craft and masters, the new Mugler is about nonspecialists, quick communication and downgrading the role of technique and craft, at least in the heavy, earnest sense.” In NY Times.

Time warp – “In the past couple of years, more and more guys I talk to have been going vintage when it comes to watches… It’s the inevitable pushback against the highflying hedge-fund era, when the pursuit of luxury meant the quest for highly conspicuous quality and lots of it.” In Wall Street Journal.

John Lobb unveiles bespoke line – “It was created as a celebration of world cities: Eleven teams were assembled in 11 capitals to each create a unique pair of John Lobb shoes. The idea was to make two shoes that embody the spirit of the city, Paul-Dauphin said. He called it ‘around the world in 22 shoes.’”  In Forbes.

F(AA)shion Dialogues – “In this search for fresh approaches some fashion designers developed collaborations with architects… Trying to explore the new possibilities offered by fashion and architecture, the Architectural Association School launched the ‘F(AA)shion’ workshop, an intensive design-based programme of lectures.” In Dazed Digital.

Does this green flatter me? – „Green fashion was all the rage about four years ago, when virtually every designer of premium jeans or discount underwear was touting the organic attributes of their products. But the trend died down in response to the global recession and consumer skepticism about just how environmentally friendly fashion could be.” In NY Times.

Carine’s next step – “Carine Roitfeld has finally confirmed her next move post-French Vogue – the former editor is teaming up with Barneys to become the store’s guest editor and stylist for autumn/winter 2011-12. Roitfeld will style and edit the American store’s advertising campaign (photographed by Mario Sorrenti), catalogue, newsletters, as well as the Madison Avenue windows.” In Vogue UK.

20 odd questions for Stephanie Phair – „The director of Net-a-Porter’s discount sister site, the Outnet, shares her bargain-shopping secrets. With a pedigree that includes Oxford and a three-year stint in the public-relations and marketing department at American Vogue, the „designer agnostic” is a veteran when it comes to looking good for less.” In NY Times.

Rodarte steps up to a widening world – “Over the past year the fashion brand, created in 2005 by the sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, made headlines not only for its distinctive ready-to-wear collections but also for its first foray into costume design… [Now] they have announced that they have been invited by Pitti W, the womenswear portion of Pitti Immagine, to be its special guests at its June capsule collection in Florence.” In International Herald Tribune.

Less appetite for luxury – „“I realize how much I have wasted,” Ms. Kusaka said as she hurried with her boyfriend one recent evening through empty streets in the normally glittering Ginza shopping district, where streetlamps were still darkened to save electricity two weeks after the earthquake. “This whole incident has changed people’s outlook,” she said.” In NY Times.